Saturday, 20 October 2012

Stranger In Athens 2012

"All travel has its advantages. If the passenger visits better countries, he may learn to improve his own. And if fortune carries him to worse, he may learn to enjoy it" - Dr Samuel Johnson.

Standing on Areopagus Hill, overlooking Athens.
by Kudakwashe Kanhutu 

Where do I begin? What style should I use? I think I will ask myself a few questions and my answers to them should be an expose and, hopefully, an advert for others who enjoy travel as I do, to also travel to mainland Greece. I also put a lot of pictures at the end which form a photo essay of this diary.

Why Athens? 

My desire to visit Greece is in some way related to my Christian faith. I will tell you how. The place I have always really wanted to visit is Israel. I want to see all the places where the events in the bible happened; Christ’s tomb (empty of course!), Jerusalem, Galilee, Nazareth and a host of other places mentioned in the bible. But alas, the people who are currently settled in Israel are doing a lot of unchristian things to each other that I hesitate to visit. So, because of security concerns and other misgivings, Israel is not on my cards. Another country with such a long history and rich traditions has to suffice in Israel’s stead. 

Greece is an old civilization that dates back to Christ’s time and even before. There is a strong tradition of Christianity in Greece. The Corinthians, a Chapter in the New Testament, testifies to these facts. There was even a chance of visiting the temple in Corinth which St Paul visited just after the ascendancy, but I will get to that later on. My draw to Athens however, was worldly and not at all spiritual. By this I do not mean I went in search of Greek beauties. No Sir. No Madam. I only mean that as a student of the art of war, literature, politics and international relations (worldly stuff), I am intimately conversant with the fact that there is a lot that the modern day world owes to Greek ingenuity. Democracy was invented here. Algebra (although I imagine maths students would curse rather than rejoice this fact), Geometry, Epic Poetry, Theatre, the Olympics and, a whole host of other things I am not aware of, are Greek inventions. Let’s quickly agree that I was under no illusion that I was visiting a perfect society. An amusing anecdote which forewarned me against this kind of illusion suffices at this point: 

The Jerusalem Syndrome: 

"The best known, although not the most prevalent, manifestation of the Jerusalem syndrome is the phenomenon whereby a person who seems previously balanced and devoid of any signs of psychopathology becomes psychotic after arriving in Jerusalem. The psychosis is characterized by an intense religious theme and typically resolves to full recovery after a few weeks or after being removed from the area.” (Wikipedia)

I read an article by a travel correspondent for Time Magazine a few years ago, who recorded, with examples, the phenomenon described above by Wikipedia. He recorded an American tourist who was picked up by police wandering the hills around Jerusalem in flowing white robes (presumably to deliver his Sermon on the Mount), then there was the burly German who abused staff at a Jerusalem hotel for preventing him from “preparing the last supper.” The correspondent explained this as how disappointment manifests itself among people who visit Jerusalem expecting an epiphany but, instead, find themselves in an earthly city with traffic jams and garbage disposal problems just like any other. They then enact what they expected to find! The point for me is not the accuracy of the diagnosis, the point for me is, thus, I did not expect Greece to be a model for all the ideals. 

Getting There?

My Swissair Airbus at Geneve Aeroport.
Squeamish friends questioned the wisdom of travelling to Greece when all we hear on the news is violent targeting of foreigners by nationalist groups in Greece. I was very dismissive of such a concern for three reasons, one; I am a nationalist myself and therefore know, inside out, the etiquette for dealing with other nationalists in their country. There are a few golden rules, such as; Do NOT try to run for president while over there, do NOT monopolize the means of production while paying the locals peanuts, also, do NOT be rude and offensive to their national symbols. I did none of the above. The second reason why I was unconcerned by worries of attacks on myself is that without recourse to state machinery, I feel I am on equal footing with any individual that may wish to cause me harm. If the state is complicity in these attacks on foreigners, my own state should be able to pay them in kind (if not now, then at some point in the future). Thirdly, and this is my main point, whoever expects the conditions of his or her living room to subsist everywhere is not suited to travelling. You travel to experience new things, some good and some bad. So there was no reason not to go.

A first sight of the Swiss Alps en route to Athens.
Sea, Air or Land? 

Crossing the Saronic Gulf starting from Piraeus. The wine-dark-sea of Homer's description.

By any means necessary!

Crossing Aegina Island by quad bike.
I love flying and, always have, since my background is in Civil Aviation. I even love the little noise the aerilons and spoilers make as part of the pre-flight checks by the cockpit crew. So you guessed it, a flight would be involved in my trip to Greece! I will repeat here what Sir Thomas More said in Utopia, that the dead can get to heaven from anywhere. You can get to Greece from anywhere, I live in London, actually Canterbury, at the moment so I left from London Heathrow. I hope you sense my disappointment in only being airborne for 3 hours (my journey time from my departure port), for when I travel I don't travel to arrive. The journey too, for me, is a part of the vacation. Having worked for a national airline, I tend to root for national carriers or big airlines as opposed to the budget airlines that have sprung up like mushrooms recently. The service is better and the safety record is quite excellent. I don't know about you but I am weaning myself off the Easyjets and the Ryanairs of this world, so I chose Swissair and, surprise, surprise, it was cheaper than the "budget airlines," they served me food and I didn't have to pay to use the toilet on board. They even gave me a free take home souvenir and some Swiss chocolate, now tell me; who has been perpetuating this false rumour that budget airlines are cheaper than real airlines?! 

My Swissair flight was leaving Heathrow at 7am to Geneva and the onward flight would leave for Athens around 3pm. Here, I almost made the classic mistake that is to be avoided like the plague. I made the same mistake in January when I went to Madrid and earlier again in 2011 when I went to South Africa with a stopover in Dubai. The temptation is great if you are not wealthy, to exploit stopovers and take a quick look around the stopover city; so as to tick the destination off your places-to-visit-list. Rookie mistake! Not to be condoned by the serious traveller, in fact it should be condemned by the serious traveller. In January, I saw Madrid on the run; there was just no time. I breezed into Madrid Barajas Airport at 10am and my flight out of Madrid was at 1800hrs, there is no way you can take in a city's attraction in 8hrs. I literally had to run through Prado Museum in Madrid, who does that?! At the Santiago Bernabeu, the other visitors must have thought I was on amphethamines because of my agitation and impatience when they lingered too long in a photo op spot. Then, at the Puerta De Alcala, a man running away from war would have hung around longer to take in this magnificent sight. I have no memories of Madrid at all, I see places that I visited appear on TV, and I don't know even their names, let alone their histories. So it was, that, initially I was thinking to race into Geneva during my stopover, so as to get it out of the way but I, rightly dropped that idea. I will visit Geneva separately, soon!  

London Heathrow. 27L? 

The Swiss run a smooth operation, I hear their banks, clocks and even cheeses are of a very high standard. My experience with their airline confirmed for me the truth behind Swiss efficiency. Even on the journey, Dr Samuel Johnson's quote I used to open my narrative was being proved to be quite incisive. I would copy some Swiss practices in a heartbeat. We left Heathrow's Runway 27L like a dream at 0700hrs. A smooth flight and a dream like landing at Geneve Aeroport, with its stunning snowcapped mountains watching inescapably, ensured. Impeccable time keeping is one thing I would take from the Swiss experience. I managed to look around the airport briefly when I was there, but soon had to board another Swiss Airbus heading to Athens. The holiday proper had now begun! 

What Sensations On Arrival?

Enter, Athens
Travel is a personal as well as a shared experience. My personal reason was, I wanted to take a break from the monotony of my War Studies that I had imposed upon myself during the June to September break from University. It was very important for me, therefore, that any political lessons be minimal for me on this trip. I took off my student-of-War-and-Strategy hat, and put on my indifference-to-issues hat. I was not even going to watch the news. But you also meet new people when you travel, so the personal agenda is not so set in stone. The way my travel was configured anyway, I was going to make new friends who would, no doubt, want to know my position on issues. I deliberately set this up when I decided to take the two day group tour of Delphi and Meteora with strangers, but I will come back to that later on. 

On arrival in Athens, my Jerusalem Syndrome moment did not arise because, as I said earlier, forewarned is forearmed. Because I did not have great expectations of Athens, I was pleasantly surprised to find a smooth run operation when I got there. Courteous airport staff, train staff who make announcements in English and Greek, Sign posts with both languages, polite bus drivers and polite people who speak both English and Greek. You see, with French and Spanish, at least I know to say je'taime, au revoir, adios, ola, but I didn't know a single Greek word to save my life. I still don't! 

The Greek are a friendly people. I checked into the Hotel Ionis presently and within 10 minutes I was back on the street heading to the Acropolis, Athens' main attraction. Would you believe it, I came back from my holiday without entering the Acropolis parameter because, like a madman, I had thought I can take in all of Greece's sights in 5 days. Rookie mistake! When I got to the Acropolis, it had closed for the day since it was around 1800hrs. I managed to get to Areopagus Hill which is adjacent to the Acropolis and affords the same stunning view of Athens as from the Acropolis. My Christian eagerness was satisfied here, for no other than Saint Paul preached to the Greeks from this very spot. It is said he told the Greeks at this rock that, "Now what you worship as something unknown I am going to proclaim to you. The God who made the world and everything in it is the lord of Heaven and Earth and does not live in temples built by hands." The Greeks had their gods and built temples for them, but they had an inkling of another god they did not know and St Paul opened their eyes to whom it was. Please go there for yourself, you will learn more than I did because I was, unthinkably at the time of the planning of my trip, pressed for time. 

On my flight back from Athens the Greek businessman I was sitting next to jokingly asked me if I had had a helicopter in Greece when I told him of all the places I had been to and the ones I missed out on. I will quickly list them here: Aegina Island; Agistri Island; Lamia, Delphi, Mt Parnassus; Thermopilai, Monument of Leonidas, Thessaly Plains, Meteora, Kalambaka; Athens, Vouliagmeni Lake, Asteras Beach, Piraeus. In these major places there will little detours to various sights and places of interest, I missed out on a multitude of the attractions despite being in these places. I will also run down for you the places I wanted to see but could not; Mount Olympus - the home of Olympian Zeus, Cape Sounion and the Temple of Lord Poseidon the earthshaker, Corinth where the New Testatement Book of Corinthians draws its name from, Sparta, Crete, Mykonos, Chios, you name it! There is so much to do in Greece, you need a month to feel you have seen anything at all. But we do what we have to do. 

What Did I Get Up To? 

On arrival therefore, I had already taken in the Acropolis (albeit from a distance), managed to see all the attractions that surround the Acropolis such as the Temple of Olympian Zeus, Aeropagus Hill, Syntagma Square (Parliament House), Roman Agora, The National Garden, and the Academia. While these seem like quite a haul, the sights I missed are book length, Athens has that much to see e.g the Museums, Hadrian's Library, the Ancient Agora, Theatre of Dionysus, Panatheniac Stadium, name the man or woman who can list all of the sights I missed in one sitting! So it was that I would have to be satisfied with the few places I saw. As it turns out the Greeks are friendly people. I met a glorious girl during my walk around the city and we agreed to have to dinner at a restaraunt near the Acropolis later that evening. It is always a delight to spend time with free spirited people. 

I was also aware that I had to take in the nightlife on arrival night, because although my main hotel was in Athens, I was going to spend other nights in hotels outside the city. This was poor planning again on my part, for it means I paid for two hotels on the same nights. Much later in the same night then I went club hopping in the Gazi District of Athens (the "Spanish nights" at Club Socialista was the most outstanding experience!) I have seen things. On the first night I did not go to bed until 6am, breakfast was at 7am if I was to make the early trip I had planned for my second day. Technically therefore on the first night I paid for a hotel room that I did not use except as a storage room for my clothes. At least I made use of the breakfast part of the bed and breakfast designation of my stay... 

Cape Sounion, Vougliameni, or Asteras?

With a goddess like Greek beauty at Asteras Beach
The best beaches in all of Athens are in Vouliagmeni district, this is on coastal road towards Cape Sounion. I had planned to go to Cape Sounion and take a look around the Temple of Poseidon, the earthshaker. Homer gave Poseidon such a prominent role in the Odyssey and the Iliad, that I wanted to pay homage. I had to drop this however due to time constraints, instead of going all the way to Cape Sounion then making my way back to Athens seeing the beaches, I resolved to just go as far as Vouliagmeni and leave Sounion for next time. Cape Sounion out, it was a matter of visiting Vouliagmeni Lake which is a lake whose waters are fed by a volcano of some sort thus retains a steady 25 degree temperature throught the year. The waters are also said to have medicinal properties. I never tested this theory for when I arrived at the "lake" the Mcdonalds Syndrome struck! Anyone who has ever gone to Mcdonalds to buy a Big Mac enticed by the pictures on their lorries will tell you that the picture tells a false story. When I got to the "lake" I saw that it was not a lake but a pond and only old people frequent it. In my mind I had visions of watersports, yachts and etc, No chance! 

It's only lucky that directly across from the "lake" there is a host of Athens' cleanest beaches, Asteras Beach being the best of the pick. So instead I went across to Asteras, paid my 10 Euro entry. This fee is well worth it because of the facilities you have access to, changing room, loungers, sunbeds, tennis courts, volleyball courts and the like. It was here that I had my best outdoor sleep ever. Asteras Beach is one of those shallow water beaches and the sand is ribbed due to the gentle motion of the seas in this part of the world. The waters are crystal clear as well and it was so calming and peaceful. I met some Greek people who invited me to a party later-on that evening but I declined as I had a dinner date back in Athens with the Greek girl I had met the previous evening. Asteras Beach also has The Temple of Apollo in its perimeter. Oh Joy! I could have stayed all day here but sadly had to return to Athens city. Vougliameni is the most affluent districts of Athens and I plan to stay here on my next visit. 

Back in Athens it was dinner and the inevitable ending up in the nightclubs of Gazi District. Returning to the hotel at 6am as usual. It was on my way from Gazi on this night that I experienced discrimination, but not from the usual suspects, I will say something about this at the end under the subheading; politics. My return to the hotel at 6am was necessitated by the fact that my tour group was coming to pick me up for the highlight of the visit. A trip to the centre of Greece. Delphi and Meteora 2 Day Tour. 

Was This The Trip That Made My Trip? 

I must answer with an emphatic yes. Without this part of the trip Greece would have not been that attractive for me. I took an All Greece Travel guided 2 Day Tour of Delphi and Meteora. I will not preempt what this entails but only to say it has to be done. The best aspect was that our guide was an encyclopedia of Greek history, culture, politics, economics, current affairs, geography and add whatelse! This trip takes you to the ancient monasteries atop the massive boulders of Meteora on the Thessaly Plains via the Temple of the Oracle at Delphi. In ancient times, no statesman made a major decision affecting the state without first consulting the Oracle at Delphi. We left Saturday morning after our bus had picked up all the other tourees (is that a word) and headed out on the E75 highway towards Thessaloniki. I am unable to tell you much about the route as I slept like a baby on the bus owing to not having slept the previous night as I was out in Gazi. The only time I managed to sleep in my hotel room during this trip was in Meteora at Amalia Hotel, but that is only because Meteora in Kalambaka is remote and there was no nightlife near my hotel. I learned a lot here and made good friends with the strangers that made part of my tour group. It was a delight culminating with us having lunch in the shadow of the massive rock boulders of Meteora. All Greece Travel then returned us to our hotels in Athens by Sunday and I proceeded to stay out again in Gazi. So for 4 nights in a row, my main hotel room only served as a storage place. 

Agistri or Aegina Island? 

Both! Would I go to Greece and not visit the islands? No sir, no madam, not likely. Agistri and Aegina are easily reachable by boats from Piraeus in Athens. I took the Hellenic Seaways Flying Dolphin service to Aegina then onwards to Agistri. My plan was to to go around Agistri on horseback. It's quite a small island but when I got there I was already cutting it too fine and the horses were only available from 5pm. I still had to go Aegina, so was forced to take the bus and walk to the beauty spots of Agristri. I will not say what I saw at Halkiada Beach, #stillshakingmyhead! Go and see for yourself.  

By the time I got back to Aegina, I was now in a headlong rush, there was no time. I wanted to see the Temple of Aphaia. Swimming in the sea there was no longer a priority for I had swam my fill at Halkiada Beach in Agistri. The best way to cross Aegina is by quad bike. I found this out quite accidentally after the bus ticket-agent had been very dismissive of me. Granted, I was speaking in English and he in Greek (my usual way of communicating whenever I travel) , but I am also very fluent in body language so I know if someone is being rude to me. I refuse to pay any money to rude people despite any inconvenience this may pose to me. This is my usual rule. So as I was walking away in disgust at the agent, I saw a good spirited New Zealand family who were hiring quad bikes to go in the direction I was going, I paid my share of the cost and we were off like a dream across Aegina Island returning by nightfall to hand back the quad bikes and re-cross the Saronic Gulf back to Piraeus. Oh Joy!  

Incidentally? 

Schalke 04, the German Football Club were in town for a Champions League match against Olympiacos Piraeus. When I got to the Olympiacos Piraeus stadium, I called on a favour from my Greek friends in high places and got a pitchside guest pass to watch Schalke 04 train for their game. Friends in the right places! This also became a sight seeing tour as I managed to take in the stadium. I love football so this was a good extra.

Pitch-side with Schalke 04
I will be the first to admit that the things I did in Athens are dwarfed by what I didn't do, so I am going back!! Definitely. After the Olympiacos Piraeus experience, I returned to my hotel to change and head back for dinner in Gazi district and the usual night on the town. At 5am I returned to the hotel to briefly sleep in anticipation of my being kicked out at 12pm, I think the polite people at the hotels call it, euphimisticallty, checking out. 

End Of The Trip? 

You would think, but how wrong you would be! My return flight was not on Swissair, I had instead booked Lufthansa German Airlines. I have always had great respect for the Lufthansa's operation from my days at Air Zimbabwe. My flight from Athens was therefore via Frankfurt on Lufthansa with a 1 hour stopver there to change aircraft. All my life I have always secretly hoped for a delayed flight so as to enjoy a complementary holiday. To quote the brilliant Greek girl I had been in conversation with the previous days in Athens; "if you want it badly, the universe will give it to you!" How else do you explain that our flight that was running 20 minutes ahead of scheduled landing in Frankfurt suddenly was diverted to Nurnberg owing to freak bad weather over Frankfurt? How else do you explain that while we were in Nurnberg, the refuelling overshot the required fuel by 2 tonnes? All this time there had been an outside chance we may still make our connection with the London flight. Our Flight Commander on the Lufthansa Airbus A321 - 200 aircraft initially considered defuelling but overruled himself instead and chose to fly out then hold over Frankfurt until all the excess fuel had burned out. You see, planes cannot land with excess fuel. So a trip that should be about 15 minutes became a 1 hour 15 minutes flight, making it just in the nick of time as I am told Frankfurt airport closes at 11pm every night due to its proximate location to residential areas. Thank you universe! I got what I have always wanted. 

SHERATON FRANKFURT!

The Sheraton at Frankfurt Airport

I missed my connection flight and needless to say I was now in Lufthansa's care to wait on me hand and foot! This is exactly how I got my extra day of holiday in Frankfurt. I made sure I was booked on the latest available flight to London, so went into the city and looked around. I was struck by Germany's beauty close up and will still make a trip to take an even closer look. The highlight was certainly my stay at the shockingly expensive Sheraton Hotel. It is out of my league and even if I could afford it, I don't know if this would not put a serious dent in my practical-guy-credentials. All the same it was the most beautiful night's sleep I have ever had.

Rooms at the Sheraton Frankfurt Hotel and Towers Conference Centre, courtesy of Lufthansa after having delayed me!


The Politics 

In Greece? I was completely switched off from politics but I could not help notice that the good people of Greece have been made to suffer by the foolish decision to join the Euro currency. I hated that aspect about whoever made this decision on behalf of the good people of Greece. Secondly I also found it odd to see a lot of stray dogs on Athens' streets. Where was the GSPCA? A third point and this relates to the discrimination I experienced that I mentioned earlier. On my way from Gazi district at 5am one night I saw some black sex workers (one of my papers last year investigated the plight of people crossing the Mediterranean illegally from North Africa), here was a chance to talk to them and find out how it was for them. I asked how much the cost was (the cynic may think I was soliciting here but I wasn't, honestly), to which these women told me they don't deal with black men, they only deal with white men. If I wanted it, it would be 100 Euros upfront. Now you tell, rejected by my own people! 

Would I Do It Again? 

Yes Of Course!! 

See you in Athens next year... 

Photo Essay: 

Below are some of the things I got up to. I would do it again. I apologise that the photos may be out of sequence as this is my first foray, but in my next article, there will be some semblance of order, so that the title photo essay will be apt.

The briefest of stopovers in Geneve on the way to Athens.

My destination (Aegina Island) viewed from the air, at this point I was thinking I will save some money by walking from one end to the other, no chance!

Looking up at the Acropolis on Arrival in Athens.
Areopagus Hill and the Acropolis


On the E75, heading to Thessaloniki
Matina and I, on the way to Delphi. What she doesn't know about Greece is not worth knowing. 

Chicken Souvlaki and Mythos, could I get any Greekier?!


The Temple of Apollo at Delphi.
Contemplative at the Delphi Theatre. 5 000 seated!

The Stadium of the Pythian Games at Delphi.
Here, I conquered Mt Parnassus, The Home of the Muses at Delphi.
At the monument to King Leonidas and his 300 Spartans who held off a larger Persian Army so as to give Sparta a chance to rescue itself.
My Hotel in Kalambaka, to see the Monasteries of Meteora.
Looking at the Rocky Forest (noun.) Meteora, Greece

The Author, suspended between Heaven and Earth, in Meteora, Kalambaka on the Thessaly Plains.
At the Monastery of St Stephen, Meteora, Kalambaka

The waterfront at Aegina Island, the home of the Temple of Aphaia, Greece.

On board the Carte Blanche II, on Agistri Island in the Saronic Gulf


Hellenic Seaways' The Flying Dolphin XVIII
Land's End. Looking out to Piraeus from Halkiada Beach, Agistri.

Hiking through the pine forest on the Island of Agistri. I couldn't find the horses.



Asteras Beach, Greece

Greek Goddess at Asteras Beach, Vouliagmeni, Greece.






Chatting to a glorious Greek girl, in hexameter, at Asteras Beach 


The train stop at Syntagma Square, Central Athens by my calculations.

Areopagus Hill
The Sheraton, FRA


David and Goliath Statue, Frankfurt Am Zeil Mall
The best night's sleep ever! 
The River Main, Frankfurt, Germany
Oper Frankfurt, Germany
Das Auto!
The most common symbol of Greece, The Greek Parliament.
A hidden gem, The Temple of Apollo tucked away at Asteras Beach

Hellenic Seaways, Highspeed 4
Hellenic Seaways, Highspeed 6

Friday, 19 October 2012

A Question Of Loyalty

This story was first published in The Horizon Magazine in Zimbabwe, as I was very young when I wrote the story, I really can’t take all the credit. Forthwith, I acknowledge the help I got from Mr Peter Birkett, the British Airways Chief Security Officer who “taught me how to hijack planes.” Thanks also to Andrew Moyse, the Horizon Editor, for leaving out some of the laughable conversations I had included in the original script. Other than that, this is a story of my creation. The Zimbabwe Defence Forces also took a flirting interest in the story when it was published but it was all very cordial, very amicable. Read here therefore, the most beautiful story I have ever written. I closely followed the pattern of the master – Alistair Maclean – “no romance, it just slows down the action!”

This is the South African Airways Airbus A300 where the story narrated below may or may not have happened.


by Kudakwashe Kanhutu

The trip should have carried no drama at all. The flight to Johannesburg would be slightly under two hours and every time I had done the Jo’burg run, which is a relatively short hop and over land too, I was confident my safety was guaranteed, not that air safety was a major concern. As a high-ranking air force officer, I had seen so much combat action from military planes to the effect that civilian flight did not even stir my blood. I had no way of knowing that this particular trip would reshape my entire philosophy and forever change my laissez-faire attitude towards life.

As the big Airbus A300 aircraft swept off the runway into the night sky, my mind focused on the problems we were facing at home: nationwide workers’ strikes, university students’ demonstrations and a weak economy. It just wasn’t healthy. It was not my area of concern, but as I sized it up I conceded that disloyalty seemed to be taking over. Now, loyalty meant living to me. Those without loyalty left me cold and sad. I could not understand why one skilled at his work would do his country a disservice and go to serve abroad. University students and the workers’ strikes and the denunciation of government were cases of rebellion fit for animals, and wild animals at that. I believed everyone had a duty to the country, to the president and to God. I had taken the vow as a mere Red Cross youth member, as a Boy Scout, then again when I joined the air force and most recently when I took office within the defence forces. I therefore strongly felt everyone had to be loyal to the country and submit to government decisions and control. According to the bible, a leader of a country is installed by God and to despise his authority is blasphemy and a punishable sin.

But not for me. I was the one to stand up and be counted for my country. Fanatical loyalty was my daily bread, in my heart I believed that I was an integral part of government and therefore knew “government employee” would be my name until death. It was my view that the acute unemployment in the country existed only because school leavers were too choosy and afraid of hard work, so they stayed home and played havoc with the statistics. I had heard of innocent people wrongly sent to jail, but of course I had never heard of anyone who admitted to being guilty.

With that line of thought everything was cosy between the leadership of the country and me. I wished everybody would find solace in hard work and the spirit of aspiring to achieve a better status or go to jail to regain some manners relative to loyalty. The government always acted in the best interests of its citizens. Fantasy. I might as well have believed that the Devil took good care of his people.

Thirty minutes into the night flight I turned my attention to my fellow passengers. There were the two teenagers wearing hippy clothing and indecent haircuts. I grieved for the past. Further on, without having to strain my neck, there was the nervous couple in seats 23A and B. But it was behind them, in seats 24A, B and C, that my eyes rested. There was a mother and her two children – sweet twins aged about six. I gave them ten out of ten. A sense of peace and kindness descended upon me just watching the kids’ kitten like antics, 13 000 above planet Earth and they were so carefree.

I was about to turn to the newspaper the air hostess had handed me, when the pilot announced flatly that we had been hijacked by a lone gunman who was yet to make his demands known. Paralysis gripped me. First to go was the notion of air safety. How had the heavily armed gunman sneaked through airport security? A thousand years later, which I suppose was 15 minutes, the gunman made known his demands. He was a member of a commando unit and wanted two South African commandos, captured as cross – border saboteurs during the apartheid era, to be released and put onto a plane. These men were to be given weapons and flown by a civilian crew into South African air space and then para – dropped.

A time limit was given: in the 40 minutes we still had to touchdown in Johannesburg, a plane was to be refuelled and made to stand by. The South African authorities would make ‘phone call one’ – high priority phone call for exactly five minutes to the authorities of my country, where these commandos were being held. My country would then authorise the release of the prisoners, drive them to the airport and allow them to make sure there no security personnel masquerading as crew or hiding somewhere on board. After the airliner had taken off, the government of my country would only have lost two hours fuel and would have saved the 176 lives on board our aircraft. The operation was to take 40 minutes flat and anyone who slipped up on the deadline would be held responsible by the world for the 176 lives that would surely perish if the deadline was not met.

If the deadline was met, the lone gunman would receive a secret message, the first would come in 20 minutes to show that positive action was taking place and the second message after the plane had taken off with the prisoners on board. This meant there were many accomplices on the ground, who would phone Johannesburg’s control tower then get the passwords relayed to our aircraft. This was clearly a military operation. During my military service I had undergone anti – hijack training. I knew all about staying calm, assessing the situation, calculating the risk and taking appropriate action, but despite that my fear was all consuming and was reflected all around me by my fellow passengers. Returning to earth, out of control and at bullet-speed is never part of the bargain when we take to the sky. Also, the fact that the hijacker had not misdirected his energy running up and down aisles threatening every passenger in sight credited him as a highly trained and focused soldier, and identified him as a formidable foe.

But what really was there to my fear? My government knew that I and other passengers were on board. The terrorist’s demands would be met on the double and all 176 passengers would disembark at Jan Smuts Airport, shaken but with big smiles and a tale each for their folks. It was easy really, the two commandos, weak from the long stay in jail would bash their heads against rocks during the para – drop and foil their own escape.

I was deadly wrong. My trip was now a frightful flight with a big banner that said “governments do not make decisions under pressure from terrorists.” I could not believe it; my own government would actually make us go through such an ordeal just for the sake of a twisted political standpoint. It was said that terrorism should be discouraged in its infancy; if terrorists won a small victory they would insist on bigger things. Of course who ever said this was conveniently not on board the same plane as me. Looking across at the twins I was overwhelmed by helpless anger. They were worth a thousand terrorists’ political demands and yet my government had authorised “whatever measures might be necessary to free the hostages”!

Things were happening all at once, the gunman had instructed the pilot to dump almost all fuel as a negotiating tactic, our engines would clank shut any moment, and without thrust our aircraft was as impressive as a mouthful of dust. If our government intervened we would just make it to landing. I had lived my last and all my loyalty and confidence in government suddenly waned. I cursed the vulgarity of politics and with it our expendability; we were just pawns on a very big chessboard.

Promptly the gunman emerged in the aisle. He was a white man in his thirties and he wore a black combat outfit and his face was painted black. A handgun was stuck in his belt within easy reach and a sub – machine gun was slung casually over his shoulder, his ammunition belt was well supplied. However, he was not shooting. He had high explosive charges which he place randomly around the plane. One mistake and we would all be blown to smithereens. I visualized little pieces of metal and human flesh raining down on the slumbering city of Jo’burg. As he carried out his operation, his eyes were ever watchful and his reflexes fully alert. I knew a surprise attack would only end with the incapacitation of the perpetrator, and so to keep my mind off it I looked out of the window. I saw a fighter plane performing a steep climb with the blue blow – torch after burner flame trailing behind. Fancy dramatics I thought bitterly. When I looked back, the air pirate was standing, looking down at the twins. Their mother was clutching the twins desperately, protecting them from the menacing gaze. 

The gunman was a terrorist and would stop at nothing. I thought, he would now begin the killing and it seemed he had chosen the twins to be the first. God, how I wished I had stayed on the anti – hijack team. Now would have been my day. However, I still knew a thing or two, my hands were starting to grasp the metal head of my seat belt when the hijacker moved off, heading swiftly to the cockpit. I sat at ease.

Our descent was sharp but I hardly noticed. When we levelled off I could see the Jo’burg lights. Then the plane banked sharply and we began heading west, away from the airport, shortly after, all our lights were extinguished, even the anti – collision lights went off, at first I imagined the aircraft’s systems had gone down, but the steady hum of the engines told me we were still in circulation. I later learned that the commando had said he was a soldier and did not kill children. So the lights off procedure was to facilitate a parachute jump under the cover of darkness. After about a minute of total darkness the lights came back on again. The hijacker had spared our lives but had severed our communications equipment. His jump meant that we were lower than 3 300 metres but still nowhere closer to the airport.

The aircraft banked sharply again and the engines screamed as we regained altitude and increased speed. After a few minutes of climbing sharply the two powerful engines fell silent. But the pilot had anticipated that, for he levelled off the big metal bird. We were now gliding on our own momentum and still in danger of crashing. When we were again above Johannesburg, the plane nose-dived sharply but noiselessly and we had neither radio clearance for landing nor the ability to regain altitude. The aircraft wavered as if to nose dive to our deaths and with both hands on the armrests I resolved that if I came out of this alive, I would never be a government yes – man again and my loyalty would be based on reason. I despised ‘disloyal’ people because I had not yet climbed the hill they had climbed in life. But now I knew the state can be an unfeeling monster.

As if this revelation was the magic moment that accessed our landing, our big airbus appeared directly above Jan Smuts Airport like a ghost, a little lower and the airport building’s roof would have been shaved off by our fully extended landing gear. The pilot wing – tipped the runway and the airbus silently touched down but without thrust reversers, we hurtled on towards the end of the runway on a collision course with a fully laden Boeing 747 – 400 aircraft preparing to take off. The pilot locked on the brakes and with less than 20 metres to spare we shuddered to a halt. The two aircraft sat facing each other peacefully till our peace was shattered some minutes later by black – clad anti – hijack men who, violently blew off our doors and entered with smoke – screens and such fanfare. 

The last I saw of the anti – hijack men our pilot was screaming his head off at their commander for being dramatic for nothing and terrorising the passengers with the violence of their entry. I could have walked off with a big smile if the pilot was hollering at the president of my country. I knew then my loyalty was dead. To the end of my days I will never who is the worse, terrorists who threaten public lives, or politicians who sometimes have the power to avert disaster but sacrifice innocent lives just for the sake of a political stand point.


A copy of the original publication.